Jewelry often reflects the time period in which it was created. The history of jewelry spans as far back as humanity itself, with evidence of ancient beads made from shells, bones, and teeth dating back 80,000–110,000 years.

Jewelry typically referred to as “ancient” is around 5,000–7,000 years old. Early civilizations crafted jewelry from locally sourced gemstones and metals, often obtained through extensive trade networks. Some scholars believe that the first written language developed through bead trading, as beads were among the first items used for trade, and people valued them for both their beauty and significance.

As archaeological discoveries have unearthed ancient tombs and artifacts, jewelry designs from past civilizations have been revived or reinterpreted in new styles. For example, the Etruscan Revival, Architectural Revival, and Egyptian Revival occurred at distinct points in history, between 1820–1850, 1870–1900, and 1920–1935.

Egyptian-inspired jewelry is particularly iconic, featuring recurring symbols such as scarabs, Horus, ankhs, pharaohs, and cartouches. These pieces often incorporated enamel, faience, and specific gemstones like lapis lazuli and turquoise. Later revivals continued to embrace these themes, though materials and techniques evolved based on the period’s available resources.

Jewelry periods are often categorized as Georgian, Victorian, Arts and Crafts, Edwardian, Belle Époque, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Retro, and Mid-century Modern, with each period having its own distinct characteristics that jewelry specialists use to identify and date pieces. Additionally, terms like “antique,” “vintage,” “estate,” and “period” are frequently used, though sometimes incorrectly.

• Ancient jewelry refers to items from long-extinct civilizations.
• Antique jewelry is at least 100 years old.
• Vintage jewelry falls between antique and contemporary, representing pieces from various past decades or eras.
• Estate jewelry refers to previously owned jewelry, often acquired from estates or second-hand sources, and is typically antique or vintage.
• Period jewelry refers to items that fit into a specific historical time frame (refer to the timeline).

When assigning a period to a piece of jewelry, a specialist considers more than just its appearance. The materials, cutting styles, metalworking techniques, and equipment used during the period of its creation all play a role in its classification. It’s not uncommon for a single piece to show influences from multiple periods, reflecting the transition between styles or combining elements from different times.

Conversely, a piece might have characteristics that suggest one period, but its materials or craftsmanship could align with another. These overlaps can result from factors like geography, war, resources, technological advancements, fashion trends, or even reproductions. Although we often categorize jewelry into specific periods, the timeline of history is always fluid, with styles blending and evolving. Ultimately, each civilization has sought ways to create and cherish adornments. One wonders: how will future historians view the jewelry of today?

Historically, the highest quality of porcelain produced in Jingdezhen was shaped by the preferences of the imperial family. However, by the end of the Qing dynasty (1644–1912) and the Republic period (1912–1949), these constraints began to dissolve.

Amid internal conflicts and political struggles with the Western World in the 19th century, China’s porcelain commissions dwindled. To survive, artisans had to appeal to a broader audience, which now included not only the imperial court but also officials, scholars, and the rising merchant class.

This period of upheaval gave rise to a new porcelain style. Known as ‘qianjiang cai,’ this aesthetic is distinguished by its soft, subtle hues, a stark contrast to the bold and opaque enamels that had been popular before. Translated as “light umber,” ‘qianjiang cai’ drew inspiration from the literati paintings of the Song and Yuan dynasties, which achieved a sense of atmosphere through the gradual blending of ink tones. To appeal to the scholarly class, artisans in Jingdezhen began to replicate these paintings on porcelain. These soft-colored enamels were used not only for landscape scenes but also for subjects like birds-and-flowers, still-life compositions featuring auspicious objects, and figures from history, mythology, or religion.

With such a talented community of artisans, creativity and innovation were essential for survival. Among the success stories from this era are the ‘Zhushan bayou’ (Eight Friends of Zhushan), a group of artists who gathered on the full moon of every lunar month. Each member of the group had their own area of expertise and unique aesthetic preferences. Wang Qi, widely regarded as the leader of the group, was known for his depictions of figures. His masterful use of graduated, soft tones, especially in delicate facial features, created striking and evocative images that continue to captivate viewers today.

Another notable figure from this period is Wang Bu, who sought to create a more realistic style, though not in the muted tones of ‘qianjiang cai.’ Specializing in ceramics and trained in the blue-and-white art, Wang Bu revived the portrayal of birds and flowers with his innovative technique, employing lighter shades of cobalt to contrast with the traditionally dense and bold blue of the past.

The artists of Jingdezhen during the late 19th and early 20th centuries experienced significant changes, but their creativity and adaptability ensured their survival, leaving a lasting legacy.

On February 20th in our Modern + Contemporary Fine Art Auction, we are thrilled to showcase an exceptional array of artwork from masters like Marc Chagall, Wayne Thiebaud, John Alexander, Andy Warhol, and much more. The auction will begin at 10 AM PST. Preview February 19th, 1–5 PM PST.

Chagall, revered worldwide for his ability to blend diverse artistic techniques into a distinct, dreamlike style, is particularly known for integrating his Jewish heritage into his art. His vivid, often surreal compositions are alive with color, and his use of blue — which has been interpreted as symbolizing spirituality and divinity — is particularly notable. Drawing from his personal experiences and Jewish folk traditions, Chagall’s works come alive with a sense of movement and emotion, making them both fantastical and deeply personal.

Among the highlights of the auction are two rare works on paper by Chagall, L’hiver: Procession de Noël (Les quatre saisons) (1974) and Le Dimanche (circa 1939), each carrying an estimate of $300,000–$500,000.

In L’hiver, Chagall presents an enchanting scene filled with angelic figures in the sky, joyful dancers, a fantastical half-human, half-hen figure with her young, and a procession of Christmas revelers. This eclectic composition echoes Chagall’s 1974 mosaic Four Seasons in Chicago’s Chase Tower, where he similarly fused vibrant, animated figures with animals and abstract forms. This work exemplifies Chagall’s later style, where his compositions often feel spontaneous and unrestrained.

Le Dimanche, created around 1939, depicts a tranquil rural scene with a couple strolling past a goat and a chicken. The horned goat, a recurring symbol in Chagall’s work, is often linked to his childhood in the shtetl and is sometimes interpreted as an allegory for the artist himself. The piece also reflects Chagall’s connection to the innocent life he left behind, likely providing him with solace during the uncertain period of World War II. Both of these works, created with gouache, pastel, and mixed media, are rich in color and texture, showcasing Chagall’s masterful use of materials.

In addition to Chagall, this auction will feature other exceptional works by renowned modern and contemporary artists. One of the standout pieces is The Summit Conference (1986), an oil painting by John Alexander estimated at $30,000–$50,000. Known for his atmospheric depictions of the Gulf Coast’s bayou landscapes, Alexander infuses his paintings with surrealist elements, such as skeletons in formal wear and masked figures. The work on offer features two baboons facing off against one another, with intense, expressive brushstrokes suggesting a deeper political commentary during the tense era of the Reykjavik Summit talks between Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev.

Also featured is Vote McGovern, an iconic screenprint by Andy Warhol, estimated $30,000–$50,000. This politically charged work from 1972 reinterprets a photograph of Richard Nixon, using a vivid color palette that references First Lady Pat Nixon’s dress. The unsettling portrait, created to support George McGovern’s presidential campaign, is a striking example of Warhol’s ability to blend art with political activism.

Additionally, Siddhartha’s Contemplation No. 2, an oil painting by Sri Lankan artist Senaka Senanayake, will also be featured with an estimate of $18,000–$24,000. Known for his lush depictions of the rainforest and his signature translucent layering technique, Senanayake’s works often explore Buddhist themes of impermanence and interconnectedness. This particular piece, inspired by the meditation of Siddhartha Gautama (the historical Buddha), reflects Senanayake’s serene, colorful approach to spirituality.

Other notable works in this month’s auction include pieces by Wayne Thiebaud, Roy Lichtenstein, John McCracken, Robert Arneson, and Hunt Slonem — making it a must-attend event for collectors and art enthusiasts alike.

Clars Auctions is excited to announce its upcoming Furniture, Art, Jewelry & Asian Auction on Friday, February 21st, 9:30 AM PST. This event will feature a curated selection of pieces from artists and craftsmen, spanning centuries and continents.

Furniture & Decorative Arts

Among the highlights of this auction is a 1971 Mercedes-Benz 280SL, showcasing a nearly pristine interior and exterior, previously featured in an international Mercedes periodical.

Additionally, the sale will include a wide range of antique and contemporary furniture, with notable pieces from Michael Taylor and Parish-Hadley-designed interiors. The decorative arts category will offer a Louis Vuitton monogram trunk, sterling silver items, Native American baskets, and an impressive selection of rugs and carpets.

Fine Art

This auction also features pre-war Californian, American, and international art, including paintings, works on paper, and sculptures in various styles. The works come from globally recognized artists, providing an exciting opportunity to acquire pieces that reflect diverse artistic traditions and movements.

Fine Jewelry & Watches

The jewelry section promises an incredible collection of wearable gold pieces, from timeless classics to bold, one-of-a-kind statement designs. This sale will offer a range of jewelry, including rings, necklaces, bracelets, and earrings—each crafted to complement the wearer’s personal style. Whether you’re seeking a versatile accessory or a standout piece to make a statement, there is something for every taste, blending traditional elegance with modern flair.

Asian Art

The Asian Art department is offering remarkable pieces in our upcoming auction, including a stunning set of Chinese 24-karat gold zodiac figures, featuring all twelve zodiac animals rendered in high karat gold.

The ceramic section will include a Chinese famille rose ‘three rams’ vase from the late Qing dynasty, decorated in the Qianlong style with a continuous scene symbolizing the change of fortune and the arrival of Spring.

Another highlight is a Chinese embroidered apricot-ground lady’s informal robe featuring roundels of butterflies, flower sprigs, and cranes — symbols of longevity and birthday celebrations.

The Warehouse Auction: February 22nd

The Warehouse Auction offers a dynamic and diverse selection of art, prints, and photographs, with each month featuring a curated mix of paintings, sculptures, and works from across the globe, all with accessible estimates. The Asian Art section will showcase a thoughtfully curated array, including Japanese woodblock prints, ceramics, folding screens, and other fine decorative items. In the Jewelry Department, we are thrilled to present a range of affordable pieces, from diamonds to silver and gold necklaces. Additionally, The Warehouse boasts an accessible priced collection that encompasses modern and antique furniture and décor, silver, porcelain, glass, fashion, collectible toys, books, and indigenous arts.

The Asian Art department is offering remarkable pieces in our upcoming February 21st auction. Featured is a stunning and rare set of Chinese 24-karat gold zodiac figures, with all twelve zodiac animals rendered in high karat gold.

Our Modern + Contemporary Fine Art Auction on February 20th will feature many exceptional works by renowned artists. One of the standout pieces is Vote McGovern (1972), an iconic screenprint by Andy Warhol, estimated $30,000–$50,000.

This politically charged work from 1972 reinterprets a photograph of Richard Nixon, using a vivid color palette that references First Lady Pat Nixon’s dress. The unsettling portrait, created to support George McGovern’s presidential campaign, is a striking example of Warhol’s ability to blend art with political activism.

Designer French steamer trunks have been collected by both aficionados and novice collectors alike for decades, but what makes them so collectible?

In order to get a better understanding of steamer trunks and their popularity, it is necessary to learn more about their historical context. Following the Industrial Revolution, the invention of steam locomotives and ocean liners from the early to mid-19th century opened the door for intercontinental travel. This resulted in increased use of large trunks to transport traveler’s belongings.

Originally, steamer trunks had a domed top that would protect fine clothing from the elements. However, with increased travel on large ocean liners and trains, how could locomotives and liners successfully store so many pieces of luggage? In response, Louis Vuitton established his company in 1854, fashioning high end steamer trunks with an innovative rectangular form.

Surprisingly, the first Louis Vuitton trunks did not use the well-known monogram canvas. Early steamer trunks were made in grey canvas. Beginning in 1872, this changed to red and beige striped canvas, and in 1888, moved to a Damier checkerboard canvas. It was not until after Louis Vuitton’s death that the company began to produce trunks with the signature Louis Vuitton monogrammed pattern.

How can you find the date of your Louis Vuitton steamer trunk?

The first clue lies with the label found on the interior. Generally, you should pay close attention to the store locations. The newer the trunk, the more store locations included on the label. Here are several images of labels on a variety of trunks offered at Clars.

Additionally, you will want to find a stamped or printed serial number. It is also important to take a look at the engravings on the hardware, as well as embroidery and stitching on the interior. Signatures will also appear on other elements, right down to the hangers. As antique Louis Vuitton trunks were not mechanically massed produced, there are many details to look for.

What should I look for when purchasing a Louis Vuitton trunk?

There are several important factors to ask when buying a Louis Vuitton trunk, but it is most important to purchase your trunk from a reputable source. It is imperative is to request additional photographs, and ask the seller questions about the trunk. When in doubt, it is important to send photographs of your trunk and label to a reputable gallery.

Steamer trunks are only one of many forms of luggage produced by Louis Vuitton. Clars has sold a variety of forms, including a train case, a cabin trunk, a wardrobe, as well as hardcase luggage. A form that is rarer can be more collectible, for example this exceptional vertical Louis Vuitton steamer trunk with basket insert that hammered for $13,000. For further reading, Louis Vuitton has produced a guide titled Louis Vuitton: 100 Legendary Trunks, which includes over eight hundred photographs of Louis Vuitton trunks and luggage.

Are there other early 20th century French designers who manufactured steamer trunks?

Louis Vuitton was not the only French designer manufacturing steamer trunks at the turn of the 20th century. Another well-known and collectible French designer is Goyard. Goyard was established in 1853, just one year before Louis Vuitton opened his doors. While the company began under the leadership of Francois Goyard, many rectangular steamer trunks, circa 1900, were created under the authority of Edmond Goyard (1860–1937). Goyard is known for its signature chevron canvas. Similar to Louis Vuitton, it is important to take a look at the hardware and interior stitching. As Goyard was also a high end producer, the hardware should be engraved or embossed, and the interior should have the original stitched Goyard strapwork.

Again, if you are unsure if your trunk is an authentic Louis Vuitton or Goyard example, it is advisable to send photographs to a knowledgeable gallery. It is also imperative that you purchase trunks from trustworthy galleries, and ask for additional photographs. A reliable gallery will be happy to address and questions or concerns you may have about a piece.

Our Modern + Contemporary Fine Art Auction on February 20th will feature many exceptional works by renowned artists. One of the standout pieces is The Summit Conference (1986), an oil painting by John Alexander estimated at $30,000–$50,000.

Known for his atmospheric depictions of the Gulf Coast’s bayou landscapes, Alexander infuses his paintings with surrealist elements, such as skeletons in formal wear and masked figures. The work on offer features two baboons facing off against one another, with intense, expressive brushstrokes suggesting a deeper political commentary during the tense era of the Reykjavik Summit talks between Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev.

Marc Chagall, revered worldwide for his ability to blend diverse artistic techniques into a distinct, dreamlike style, is particularly known for integrating his Jewish heritage into his art.

Chagall‘s vivid, often surreal compositions are alive with color, and his use of blue — which has been interpreted as symbolizing spirituality and divinity — is particularly notable. Drawing from his personal experiences and Jewish folk traditions, Chagall’s works come alive with a sense of movement and emotion, making them both fantastical and deeply personal.

Among the highlights of the auction are two rare works on paper by Chagall, L’hiver: Procession de Noël (Les quatre saisons) (1974) and Le Dimanche (circa 1939), each carrying an estimate of $300,000–$500,000.

In L’hiver, Chagall presents an enchanting scene filled with angelic figures in the sky, joyful dancers, a fantastical half-human, half-hen figure with her young, and a procession of Christmas revelers. This eclectic composition echoes Chagall’s 1974 mosaic Four Seasons in Chicago’s Chase Tower, where he similarly fused vibrant, animated figures with animals and abstract forms. This work exemplifies Chagall’s later style, where his compositions often feel spontaneous and unrestrained.

Le Dimanche, created around 1939, depicts a tranquil rural scene with a couple strolling past a goat and a chicken. The horned goat, a recurring symbol in Chagall’s work, is often linked to his childhood in the shtetl and is sometimes interpreted as an allegory for the artist himself. The piece also reflects Chagall’s connection to the innocent life he left behind, likely providing him with solace during the uncertain period of World War II. Both of these works, created with gouache, pastel, and mixed media, are rich in color and texture, showcasing Chagall’s masterful use of materials.

This January at Clars we are excited to offer unique works by the fascinating artist, Cady Wells, whose style was inspired by Southwestern desert landscapes and topography.

Wells was born in Massachusetts in 1904 and was raised in a household that valued arts education, taking music, literature, and fine arts classes in his youth. Despite his interest in cultural education, Wells did not fare well in the boarding schools he attended, and after dropping out of several New England academies, he was sent to Arizona in 1992 where he fell in love with the desert landscape. By 1932, Wells had decided on painting as his artistic path forward and was invited to stay at the artist’s colony in Santa Fe, New Mexico, which was also home to Georgia O’Keeffe, Andrew Dasburg, and a host of poets and writers at the time.

Wells began exhibiting alongside artists including Mark Tobey, Morris Graves, and Jackson Pollack while living between Taos and Santa Fe, and during this time the painter came to terms with his sexuality, entering a committed relationship with author and poet Myron Brinig. Wells’ relationship and career were interrupted by his service in World War II. While serving in Germany during the last nine months of the war, Wells worked with topographic maps, the influence of which is apparent in his subsequent work. Upon returning to New Mexico in 1945, Wells remained deeply affected by what he had seen in Europe, and by his own home’s proximity to the nuclear testing site at Los Alamos. He spent his final years traveling the world while remaining anchored in New Mexico, and finally finding national recognition with exhibitions in New York City, Chicago, and San Francisco, before his premature death from heart failure in 1953 at the age of 49.

Wells stands out among his peers for being a truly original artist whose abstract compositions emulate only the curves and colors of the Southwestern landscape and avoid recalling the techniques and styles of any other painter. His work remains a hidden gem among the swaths of artists who have flocked to Taos and Santa Fe over the years, never quite gaining the same reputation as his local contemporaries who favored traditional landscapes and figural painting over emotive and avant garde abstraction. The works in this month’s auction show a range of Wells’ stylistic variety, with examples displaying his interest in topographic maps as well as his prowess in color, form, and movement.