Jewelry often reflects the time period in which it was created. The history of jewelry spans as far back as humanity itself, with evidence of ancient beads made from shells, bones, and teeth dating back 80,000–110,000 years.

Jewelry typically referred to as “ancient” is around 5,000–7,000 years old. Early civilizations crafted jewelry from locally sourced gemstones and metals, often obtained through extensive trade networks. Some scholars believe that the first written language developed through bead trading, as beads were among the first items used for trade, and people valued them for both their beauty and significance.

As archaeological discoveries have unearthed ancient tombs and artifacts, jewelry designs from past civilizations have been revived or reinterpreted in new styles. For example, the Etruscan Revival, Architectural Revival, and Egyptian Revival occurred at distinct points in history, between 1820–1850, 1870–1900, and 1920–1935.

Egyptian-inspired jewelry is particularly iconic, featuring recurring symbols such as scarabs, Horus, ankhs, pharaohs, and cartouches. These pieces often incorporated enamel, faience, and specific gemstones like lapis lazuli and turquoise. Later revivals continued to embrace these themes, though materials and techniques evolved based on the period’s available resources.

Jewelry periods are often categorized as Georgian, Victorian, Arts and Crafts, Edwardian, Belle Époque, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Retro, and Mid-century Modern, with each period having its own distinct characteristics that jewelry specialists use to identify and date pieces. Additionally, terms like “antique,” “vintage,” “estate,” and “period” are frequently used, though sometimes incorrectly.

• Ancient jewelry refers to items from long-extinct civilizations.
• Antique jewelry is at least 100 years old.
• Vintage jewelry falls between antique and contemporary, representing pieces from various past decades or eras.
• Estate jewelry refers to previously owned jewelry, often acquired from estates or second-hand sources, and is typically antique or vintage.
• Period jewelry refers to items that fit into a specific historical time frame (refer to the timeline).

When assigning a period to a piece of jewelry, a specialist considers more than just its appearance. The materials, cutting styles, metalworking techniques, and equipment used during the period of its creation all play a role in its classification. It’s not uncommon for a single piece to show influences from multiple periods, reflecting the transition between styles or combining elements from different times.

Conversely, a piece might have characteristics that suggest one period, but its materials or craftsmanship could align with another. These overlaps can result from factors like geography, war, resources, technological advancements, fashion trends, or even reproductions. Although we often categorize jewelry into specific periods, the timeline of history is always fluid, with styles blending and evolving. Ultimately, each civilization has sought ways to create and cherish adornments. One wonders: how will future historians view the jewelry of today?

This April, our auctions will feature a remarkable collection from the estate of Harvey Clar, the gallery’s founder. Mr. Clar’s collection includes exquisite Lalique pieces, fine porcelain, marble and bronze sculptures.