The Genesis of Rolex

In 1905, Hans Wilsdorf, a young German entrepreneur, founded a watch distribution company in London with his brother-in-law Alfred Davis. Initially named Wilsdorf & Davis, the company imported Swiss watch movements and placed them in high-quality cases. Wilsdorf’s vision extended beyond mere functionality; he aimed to create a brand synonymous with precision and reliability. In 1908, he registered the trademark “Rolex,” a name he chose for its simplicity and universal appeal.

The Classic Oyster Perpetual

The Oyster Perpetual Wristwatch continues to be a symbol of Rolex’s commitment to quality and innovation. The Oyster Perpetual, introduced in the 1920s, was the world’s first waterproof wristwatch. The Oyster name comes from an oyster, sealed keeping the bivalves closed keeping ocean water in. Of course, for a Rolex Oyster, the opposite is the goal, sealing the movement keeping water and dust out. Its stainless steel variant represents a balance between durability and elegance, making it a staple in Rolex’s lineup and a favorite among watch enthusiasts.

Early Innovations

The Stainless Steel Oyster Perpetual Bubble Back Wristwatch was introduced in the 1930s and represented a significant advancement in watchmaking. The “Bubble Back” referred to the distinctive, protruding case back that housed the automatic movement, which was a notable innovation of the time. The Oyster Perpetual was celebrated for its robustness and water-resistant design, a leap forward in both functionality and durability.

The Datejust Era

The 18k Gold and Stainless Steel Oyster Perpetual Datejust Wristwatch represents a hallmark of Rolex’s innovation. Launched in 1945, the Datejust was the first self-winding waterproof chronometer wristwatch to feature an automatic date function displayed through a window at 3 o’clock. Its classic design, combining gold and stainless steel, made it a versatile choice for both formal and casual wear, solidifying its status as a timeless icon.

Speed & Precision

The Stainless Steel Speedking Wristwatch, introduced in the 1930s, was engineered for those who lived life in the fast lane. It was named after Sir Malcolm Campbell (British racing motorist), a Rolex enthusiast and nine-time world land speed record holder who set the record for fastest on land speed at 300 mph in 1935. Its sporty design and reliable performance made it a favorite among professionals and enthusiasts who demanded both functionality and style. The Speedking is also known as the “PoW watch.” During World War II, Rolex offered all British prisoners of war in Germany the ability to purchase a Rolex which would be delivered to their POW camp but could be paid for after the war was done. This was intended as a morale boost, and the affordable Speedking was without a doubt the most popular option.

The Submariner’s Depths

The Stainless Steel Submariner Wristwatch is perhaps one of Rolex’s most iconic models. Introduced in 1953, the Submariner was designed for professional divers and became renowned for its water resistance and robustness. Its features, including a rotating bezel for tracking dive times and a luminous dial, have made it a symbol of adventure and exploration. The Submariner is highly coveted by collectors and adventurers alike.

The Elegance of Gold

The Rolex Diamond and 18k Gold Dress Watch reflects Rolex’s foray into luxury and elegance. In the 1950s and 1960s, Rolex expanded its range to include more opulent designs. This particular model showcases Rolex’s ability to blend precision with aesthetic grandeur, using diamonds and 18k gold to create a timepiece suitable for formal occasions and high society.

Epilogue: A Legacy of Excellence

Rolex’s story is one of continuous innovation and timeless design. From its early beginnings in London to its status as a global icon, Rolex has remained at the forefront of watchmaking. Each model — whether the sturdy Bubble Back, the elegant diamond and gold dress watch, the sporty Speedking, the classic Datejust, the versatile Oyster Perpetual, or the adventurous Submariner — represents a chapter in Rolex’s legacy of precision, luxury, and craftsmanship.

As you explore these timepieces and their historical significance, you are not just witnessing the evolution of a brand but also the story of a visionary commitment to excellence that has transcended time.

Clars is thrilled to host our Exquisite Diamonds & Watches Auction on Thursday, September 19th, starting at 9:30 AM PDT. This exceptional sale will feature a stunning array of large, high-quality diamonds, signed jewelry, and rare watches.

Highlighting the diamond jewelry segment are several standout pieces, including a diamond and platinum brooch, estimated at $50,000–$70,000; a 3.36 carat diamond and fourteen-karat gold ring, estimated at $6,000–$8,000; and a diamond and 14k gold bracelet weighing a total of 15 carats, estimated at $3,500–$4,500.

Among the notable jewelry makers represented are David Webb and Cartier. Featured are a pair of David Webb diamond, black enamel, and 18k gold ear clips, estimated at $6,000–$8,000 and a pair of David Webb enamel and 18k gold Zebra ear clips, estimated at $5,000–$7,000.

In addition, the auction showcases a remarkable selection of timepieces. Leading this segment is a stainless steel Rolex ‘Submariner’ wristwatch, estimated at $7,500–$8,500; a diamond and 18k white gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso wristwatch, also estimated at $8,000–$12,000; a stainless steel Rolex Speedking wristwatch, estimated at $3,000–$5,000; a stainless steel Rolex Oyster Perpetual wristwatch, estimated at $3,000–$5,000; and an 18k gold Cartier Monaco wristwatch, estimated at $5,000–$7,000. The sale also includes a diverse range of additional timepieces spanning various decades, featuring rare and exotic models.