Jewelry often reflects the time period in which it was created. The history of jewelry spans as far back as humanity itself, with evidence of ancient beads made from shells, bones, and teeth dating back 80,000–110,000 years.

Jewelry typically referred to as “ancient” is around 5,000–7,000 years old. Early civilizations crafted jewelry from locally sourced gemstones and metals, often obtained through extensive trade networks. Some scholars believe that the first written language developed through bead trading, as beads were among the first items used for trade, and people valued them for both their beauty and significance.

As archaeological discoveries have unearthed ancient tombs and artifacts, jewelry designs from past civilizations have been revived or reinterpreted in new styles. For example, the Etruscan Revival, Architectural Revival, and Egyptian Revival occurred at distinct points in history, between 1820–1850, 1870–1900, and 1920–1935.

Egyptian-inspired jewelry is particularly iconic, featuring recurring symbols such as scarabs, Horus, ankhs, pharaohs, and cartouches. These pieces often incorporated enamel, faience, and specific gemstones like lapis lazuli and turquoise. Later revivals continued to embrace these themes, though materials and techniques evolved based on the period’s available resources.

Jewelry periods are often categorized as Georgian, Victorian, Arts and Crafts, Edwardian, Belle Époque, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Retro, and Mid-century Modern, with each period having its own distinct characteristics that jewelry specialists use to identify and date pieces. Additionally, terms like “antique,” “vintage,” “estate,” and “period” are frequently used, though sometimes incorrectly.

• Ancient jewelry refers to items from long-extinct civilizations.
• Antique jewelry is at least 100 years old.
• Vintage jewelry falls between antique and contemporary, representing pieces from various past decades or eras.
• Estate jewelry refers to previously owned jewelry, often acquired from estates or second-hand sources, and is typically antique or vintage.
• Period jewelry refers to items that fit into a specific historical time frame (refer to the timeline).

When assigning a period to a piece of jewelry, a specialist considers more than just its appearance. The materials, cutting styles, metalworking techniques, and equipment used during the period of its creation all play a role in its classification. It’s not uncommon for a single piece to show influences from multiple periods, reflecting the transition between styles or combining elements from different times.

Conversely, a piece might have characteristics that suggest one period, but its materials or craftsmanship could align with another. These overlaps can result from factors like geography, war, resources, technological advancements, fashion trends, or even reproductions. Although we often categorize jewelry into specific periods, the timeline of history is always fluid, with styles blending and evolving. Ultimately, each civilization has sought ways to create and cherish adornments. One wonders: how will future historians view the jewelry of today?

California has a long-standing tradition for metalwork. One of the most renowned metalworkers was a San Franciscan, Dirk Van Erp, who was prominent during the Arts and Crafts Period.

While he is most well-known for his table lamps, Van Erp also designed a variety of decorative arts including vases, humidors, jadinieres, and tea kettles, among others. Dirk Van Erp table lamps were typically executed in hand-hammered copper with a mica shade.

Also prized are Van Erps hammered copper vases. “Warty” vases are particularly collectible. They feature a hammered warty body, and often have a fine original red patina.

What makes a Dirk Van Erp piece more collectible? Collectors often prize the original patina, or finish. Another important factor is the date of the piece — which can be determined by taking a look at the stamped mark on the underside. Dirk Van Erp pieces are typically marked with an impressed windmill signature with text below (Van Erp was a Dutch American artisan).

The earliest signature reads, “D’ARCY GAW DIRK VAN ERP.” In 1909, Dirk joined forces with D’Arcy Gaw, an interior designer. In 1910, the duo began to use an impressed mark bearing both of their names. This mark was used until 1911. Many collectors consider works from this period to be of the best and most desirable quality.

In 1911, when their partnership dissolved, D’ARCY’s name was removed (chiseled off) from the stamp. At this stage, the stamp became known as a “closed-box” mark, with Dirk Van Erp’s name only. This was used between the years of 1911–1912, and the box was inadvertently damaged due to chiseling, to become an “open-box” mark.

In addition to the open box, it is thought that during and after the 1915 World’s Fair, Dirk Van Erp added “San Francisco,” which usually appears below the box. Van Erp exhibited at the Panama-Pacific International Exposition — the San Francisco World’s Fair that demonstrated to the world that the city had risen from the ashes, a mere nine years after the Great Fire. It was a world class exhibition that brought many of the world’s finest artists to California, and served as evidence that the San Francisco Bay Area was (and is) a world class destination bursting with talent.

This mark was used from 1915 through the death of Dirk Van Erp’s son, William, in 1977.