Jewelry often reflects the time period in which it was created. The history of jewelry spans as far back as humanity itself, with evidence of ancient beads made from shells, bones, and teeth dating back 80,000–110,000 years.

Jewelry typically referred to as “ancient” is around 5,000–7,000 years old. Early civilizations crafted jewelry from locally sourced gemstones and metals, often obtained through extensive trade networks. Some scholars believe that the first written language developed through bead trading, as beads were among the first items used for trade, and people valued them for both their beauty and significance.

As archaeological discoveries have unearthed ancient tombs and artifacts, jewelry designs from past civilizations have been revived or reinterpreted in new styles. For example, the Etruscan Revival, Architectural Revival, and Egyptian Revival occurred at distinct points in history, between 1820–1850, 1870–1900, and 1920–1935.

Egyptian-inspired jewelry is particularly iconic, featuring recurring symbols such as scarabs, Horus, ankhs, pharaohs, and cartouches. These pieces often incorporated enamel, faience, and specific gemstones like lapis lazuli and turquoise. Later revivals continued to embrace these themes, though materials and techniques evolved based on the period’s available resources.

Jewelry periods are often categorized as Georgian, Victorian, Arts and Crafts, Edwardian, Belle Époque, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Retro, and Mid-century Modern, with each period having its own distinct characteristics that jewelry specialists use to identify and date pieces. Additionally, terms like “antique,” “vintage,” “estate,” and “period” are frequently used, though sometimes incorrectly.

• Ancient jewelry refers to items from long-extinct civilizations.
• Antique jewelry is at least 100 years old.
• Vintage jewelry falls between antique and contemporary, representing pieces from various past decades or eras.
• Estate jewelry refers to previously owned jewelry, often acquired from estates or second-hand sources, and is typically antique or vintage.
• Period jewelry refers to items that fit into a specific historical time frame (refer to the timeline).

When assigning a period to a piece of jewelry, a specialist considers more than just its appearance. The materials, cutting styles, metalworking techniques, and equipment used during the period of its creation all play a role in its classification. It’s not uncommon for a single piece to show influences from multiple periods, reflecting the transition between styles or combining elements from different times.

Conversely, a piece might have characteristics that suggest one period, but its materials or craftsmanship could align with another. These overlaps can result from factors like geography, war, resources, technological advancements, fashion trends, or even reproductions. Although we often categorize jewelry into specific periods, the timeline of history is always fluid, with styles blending and evolving. Ultimately, each civilization has sought ways to create and cherish adornments. One wonders: how will future historians view the jewelry of today?

Clars is excited to present The Golden & Glamour Era Auction — featuring the jewelry collection of Hollywood actress, Joanna Barnes — on Thursday, May 16th, commencing at 10 AM PDT. This sale features an exquisite array of antique jewelry and signed pieces with exceptional provenance.

Joanna Barnes was a multifaceted talent, known as an author, newspaper columnist, and actress. Among her notable screen appearances are roles in the 1961 classic The Parent Trap, and, decades later, as the mother in Disney’s remake of the film. She graced both big and small screens with roles in productions like Home Before Dark, Spartacus, and The War Wagon. On television, she starred in series such as 21 Beacon Street, The Trials of O’Brien, and Dateline Hollywood, while also making memorable guest appearances on shows like The Millionaire, Mannix, Murder She Wrote, and Cheers. Joanna was a familiar face on early quiz programs and chat shows like What’s My Line, To Tell the Truth, and The Johnny Carson Show. Alongside her acting pursuits, she showcased her literary talent as an author and book reviewer for the Los Angeles Times, penning four novels: The Deceivers, Who is Carla Hart, Pastora, and Silverwood.

Joanna was admired and loved for her talents, her Intelligence, and her accomplishments. Of all her accolades and successes, one particular badge of honor remained close to her heart: her expulsion from the Boston Social Register as she became a professional actress.

At Clars Auctions, we are deeply honored to have been chosen as the exclusive venue to showcase the extraordinary collection of antique and signed jewelry belonging to the esteemed Joanna Barnes. Each item within this remarkable collection serves as a testament to Ms. Barnes’ impeccable taste and enduring legacy in the world of Hollywood glamour. From the delicate antique brooches to the intricate designs of her bracelets and dazzling sparkle of her earrings, every piece offers a captivating glimpse into Ms. Barnes’ journey from a budding ingenue to a revered icon of the silver screen.

What makes this collection truly special is the personal touch infused into every selection. With each piece curated by Ms. Barnes herself, there’s a profound sense of connection to her discerning eye and appreciation for the exquisite and beautifully crafted. This collection isn’t just about jewelry, it’s a reflection of Ms. Barnes’ passion for the finer things in life and her unwavering commitment to elegance and sophistication. As each item prepares to find new homes in the collections of discerning collectors worldwide, we are privileged to be a part of preserving and celebrating the enduring legacy of Joanna Barnes.

At the forefront of Ms. Barnes’ collection are sophisticated creations by renowned artisans such as Tiffany & Co. Among the highlights in the sale are an exquisite 18k gold Scorpio pendant (Estimate: $6,000–$8,000), a radiant citrine and 18k gold brooch (Estimate: $1,500–$2,500), a resplendent 18k gold bombe ring crafted by David Webb (Estimate: $1,000–$1,500), and an opulent 18k gold ‘elephant hair’ bangle bracelet from the esteemed house of Gucci (Estimate: $1,200–$1,800). Furthermore, the auction presents a meticulously curated array of exceptional antique pieces, including an enchanting antique aquamarine, diamond, and 14k gold brooch (Estimate: $2,000–$3,000) and a captivating antique enamel and 14k gold link necklace (Estimate: $2,000–$3,000).

Complementing the jewelry auction is a collection of luxury bags, featuring Judith Leiber Couture minaudiere clutches and Louis Vuitton monogram luggage.

Yao Jiang, Fine Jewelry & Timepieces Specialist at Clars, spoke to Rob Stewart, PBS TV Host & Executive Producer, on one the department’s recently sold natural pearl necklaces for 2023’s Antique Valuation Day.

In our last Spring Fine Jewelry and Timepieces Auction, we were honored to represent a natural pearl necklace from an important estate in San Francisco. It’s a strand of fifty-five graduated natural pearl beads, certified by Gemological Institute of America, which fetched $31,046 at auction.

Today, natural pearls are among the rarest of gems and their almost entirely depleted supply makes natural pearls one of nature’s greatest miracles.

The story of Van Cleef & Arpels is one of precious love, all starting with the marriage of Estelle Arpels, daughter of a precious stones dealer, and Alfred Van Cleef, son of a lapidary.

What made the married couple so successful was their shared values of innovation, family life and passion for precious stones. In 1906, with the union of their two names, the Maison of Van Cleef & Arpels was established. In 1926, their daughter, Renée Puissant, became Artistic Director of the Maison. Her imaginative and distinct style paved the way for Van Cleef & Arpels to create unique pieces that are timeless to this day.

Since its inception, nature has been a source of inspiration for the Maison’s creations. In particular, floral motifs have been seen again and again in their pieces. This stylistic tradition dates back to the all-diamond clips of the 1920s and continues to appear in their contemporary jewelry pieces.

For almost two centuries, Tiffany & Co. has been at the forefront of innovation and exquisite craftsmanship in designer jewelry — setting the standard for American luxury.

Although it originally opened in 1837 as a stationary and fancy goods store in New York City, Tiffany & Co. was clearly destined for more. Founder, Charles Lewis Tiffany, also known as the “King of Diamonds,” spearheaded the discovery and exploration of rare gemstones — going as far as to introduce the world to never-before-seen gemstones along with his Tiffany gemologists.

For example, Dr. George Frederick Kunz, a Tiffany gemologist, discovered the new specimens of kunzite in 1902 and morganite in 1910. Following this tradition of discovery, the Tiffany team founded both tanzanite and tsavorite, bringing them to the public eye in 1968 and 1974, respectively.

The beauty of jewelry can last hundreds, even thousands of years if loved and cared for properly.

These attractive gemstones and precious metals are built into everyday forms, intended to withstand wear. There are simple steps you can take to ensure the safety and care of their precious jewels. This article will review simple at-home steps you can take to ensure the sparkle and longevity of their pieces.

Cleaning:

Gemstones were cut to sparkle, so it is important to keep jewelry clean. With over 3,000 species of gemstones, it is important to take note of which gemstones one has in their possession, and what sort of care they require.

Clean by hand:

Diamonds are famous for their brilliance, and ironically, heavily attract grease. Therefore it is important to be diligent about keeping diamonds clean in order for them to sparkle. Specialized jewelry cleanings products are not necessary to accomplish this. A household grease cutter, such as non-fragranced Dawn dish detergent in warm water, following by a soft-bristled toothbrush, will help to get the diamonds’ sparkle back. Make sure to also scrub underneath the diamond and in-between prongs.

For durable gemstones such as sapphires or rubies, which are still relatively less durable than diamonds, the same process but with a mild non-fragranced hand soap will do the trick.

For relatively soft gemstones, which are highly porous, such as emeralds, opals, and pearls, special care must be taken. The content of moisture is essential to for the gemstones to remain intact and retain their beauty. Dehydrating a gemstone like these can result in crazing, cracks or even breakage. Do not utilize abrasive products that include alcohol or grease cutters. This can reduce moisture in these stones, causing irreversible damage. When cleaning these jewels, use warm water with a household non-fragranced hand soap on a soft-bristled toothbrush to clean the setting around the stone.

Ultrasonic cleaners:

With so many personal and at-home adaptions of the ultrasonic cleaner available on the market, it may be a tempting purchase. However, not all ultrasonic cleaners are considered equal. Most commercial level ultrasonic cleaners can risk shaking gemstones loose from their mountings, risking a sparkly gemstone going down the drain! It is best to wash by hand in a contained space. Or, stop by the original retailer and ask for a quick cleaning!

Over 90% of the gemstones on the market have received some form of treatment to enhance their beauty. It is important to be informed about the treatment associated with the stones. Specifically, know (or assume) that your emerald is fracture-filled and do not place it in the ultrasonic cleaner. Fillers, which help enhanced the clarity (and color in some cases) of the gemstone can shake loose.

Polishing:

A loved piece of jewelry will eventually appear worn, with hundreds of little light scuffs and scratches. This is easily reconciled with a touch of metal polish. A standard metal polish, such as Noxon, can revive the brightness of the metal. Use a microfiber cloth to do the buffing. Be mindful that every time a piece is polished, a little bit of metal is removed from the piece. So it is important not to over polish. You should also be mindful about vintage and antique jewelry. An old patina is something that takes years to form and carries the beauty of history. Be sure to contemplate what you find attractive before taking out the metal polish.

Storage:

Storage is important to maintain the integrity of jewelry. Consider factors such as form, materials, and the characteristics of the gemstones. Always be sure that precious materials are not stored with non-precious materials. Gold will not normally tarnish, however if that gold bracelet is stored next to some loose change, that metal will eventually turn! For costume jewelry, it is important to keep the area clean and dry to avoid tarnishing.

Separate gemstones. Gemstones of differing hardness can cause damage to one another when rubbed together. To prevent your sapphires from chipping your emeralds, or your diamonds and chipping your diamonds, keep them separated. A nice and easy way to prevent this is to individually store your jewelry in plastic bags. However, best to keep your pearls in linen to prevent deterioration.

A little bit of tender love and care can make a jewelry collection last generations. Be sure to understand what you have, what its needs are, and take the time for care for them. And when in doubt, ask a professional!

A gemstone is defined by its beauty. Factors such as size, shape, cut and color all assist in defining a gemstone’s beauty. The most influential of which is color. The ruby, a variety of corundum, is defined by its red hue component.

Rubies can range from orangey red to purplish red in color. Among this wide range, the finest rubies show a pure red to slightly purplish red, enhanced by vivid saturation. Many imaginative names have been used to describe a ruby’s color. The most notable being ‘pigeon’s blood’. This term characterizes the red fluorescence sometimes displayed in a ruby or ‘freshly killed pigeon’.

Although production can vary greatly even within an individual mine, some sources have become synonymous with a particular color and quality. The Mogok region of Myanmar, formerly Burma, produces ‘Burmese’ rubies. This is one of the world’s most important sources for fine rubies. These stones typically rest at the top of the market, often displaying exceptional color and quality. They typically show a red to slightly purplish red hue, vivid saturation and medium-dark tone. They often display a signature red fluorescence and a softness that is a result of internal inclusions. The most exceptional examples of Burmese rubies display a red hue and vivid saturation in addition to its softness and fluorescence.

The ruby market is also shared with the mines of Thailand and Cambodia. These sources produce ‘Thai’ or ‘Pailin’ rubies. They can show a pure red, but typically fall in the range of brownish red to purplish red, with a medium-dark to very dark tone. These stones often face up relatively dark as they commonly display areas of extinction.

Since its discovery in recent decades, the Mozambique mines of Africa, have become the world’s leading supplier of rubies. The introduction of these stones, which tend to range from purplish red to red, sometimes with a tint of orange, have forced the trade’s language to adjust. The Gemological Institute of America is now utilizing terms such as ‘crimson’, a slightly purplish red and ‘scarlet’, a red reflecting an orange tint, to characterize these increasingly common stones.

Many factors contribute to the beauty of a gemstone, including size, shape and cut. Nevertheless, color and origin, which are often tied together, remain the most important.

By Lauren Della Croce, Director, Fine Jewelry
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Clars is thrilled to host their Fine Jewelry Auction on Thursday, December 16th, beginning at 10 AM PST. The sale includes a fine selection of diamond, colored gemstone, and signed jewelry spanning from the Georgian period to contemporary. Among this selection are exceptional diamonds.

Diamonds are characterized by the ‘4Cs’: carat, cut, clarity, and color. Typically, the color of a diamond is graded on a scale ranging from D (colorless) to Z (light). When referencing the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) scale, the less color present, the more exceptional, and often more valuable, the diamond.

On the contrary, when determining the quality of fancy colored diamonds, the more color, the more extraordinary. Factors such as purity of the hue, as well as saturation play pivotal roles as well. Colored diamonds are graded beyond the D to Z range, on a scale ranging from Faint to Fancy Vivid.

Fancy colored diamonds are quite rare, with only 1 in every 10,000 diamonds showing a fancy color. The color is often a result of the presence of trace elements, not essential to the chemical composition of the diamond. Yellow diamonds, commonly marketed as “canary diamonds” most commonly contain the trace element, nitrogen.

Coming up for sale on December 16th is lot 5106, a 4.18 carats VS2 fancy light yellow diamond ring.

This fancy light yellow diamond is enhanced by its size, weighing an uncommon weight of 4.18 carats.

The rarest color of all, is pink. Pink colored diamonds range from red to purple. Unlike most colored diamonds, where colors are a result of trace elements, such as nitrogen’s presence in yellow diamonds, the majority of pink hues in pink colored diamonds are a result of a variation in its crystal structure.

The majority of the world’s pink diamonds are sourced from the famous Argyle mine, located in Australia. This mine, which has been a consistent producer of pink diamonds since its opening in 1983, officially closed in 2020.

Coming up for sale on December 16th is lot 5043, a 1.05 carats fancy intense pink-purple diamond ring.

This ring is particularly rare, as only about 28% of pink diamonds range within purplish-pink to pinkish-purple hue range, and 17% weigh over 1.00 carats.

Colored diamonds serve well to bridge the gap between the brilliance synonymous with diamonds, and the hues of gemstones. The rarity of these hues makes them a strong acquisition for a collector.